Have you ever been somewhere that you don’t really like but you still enjoy being there. Well, for me that’s Borrego Springs.

We drove there specifically to see the outdoor sculptures by Ricardo Breceda and I can unequivocally say it was not the most scenic drive. Brown, barren, dry mountainous landscape …mile after mile of it. Not a tree or plant to be seen, okay… maybe a few half dead cholla cactus.

 

 

The Chamber of Commence touts this description on their website “In Borrego Springs we are completely surrounded by nature, set in the midst of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Enjoy our nature on your own terms, hike a desert canyon or just relax by the pool, play some golf or watch the roadrunners, and always amaze yourself with our dark night sky. There is no hustle-bustle here. Borrego Springs is a small town and we’re proud of that, a small town that will seem like home as soon as you get here.”

Well, yeah…there’s no hustle bustle because there isn’t anything there! Okay, maybe that’s a bit harsh but it didn’t seem like home when I got there, so whatever. To be fair, there was vegetation once we got to Borrego Springs.

Since we were on a mission to see the sculptures, it seemed prudent to have lunch first and then go exploring. A quick search of restaurants revealed the Red Ocotillo as the top choice in town so off we went to check it out.

 

 

Lunch at the Red Ocotillo was fun…we sat outside on the patio with another couple from San Diego. Charming inside too and boy were people pouring in. I was humming the lyrics from the old Jim Croce song “ Don’t mess with Jim” as our feisty waitress ( I think her name was Slim!!!) bombed around the place telling everyone she was helping people in the order that they came in… thankfully we were number two!!!

Well, we surely didn’t mess with Slim…we had our order ready to go when she swung by our table and our credit card ready when we were finished. She was genuinely pleased that we were so easy to serve!! Yep, we aim to please.

You don’t tug on superman’s cape
You don’t spit into the wind
You don’t pull the mask off that old lone ranger
And you don’t mess around with Slim

Okay, back to the sculptures…130 of them to be exact. Scattered over hundreds of acres outside the thriving metropolis of Borrego Springs. Ricardo Breceda, the accidental artist has created many of the sculptures based on prehistoric fossils that have been found in this area.

 

 

The creatures pop up alongside Borrego Springs Road: prehistoric elephants, a saber-tooth cat, an ancient camel, a T. rex and a giant bird of prey. Not the flesh-and-blood kind, but remarkable art pieces—sometimes whimsical, sometimes haunting. While some creatures are ambitious fantasies, such as a 350-foot-long serpent arcing across the playa, many of the sculptures represent real-life creatures that once roamed this land.

 

 

 

If you are wondering what the inspiration was behind these amazing sculptures, seems Breceda started this journey just trying to do something for his daughter. When seven-year-old Lianna asked her father to make her a life-size dinosaur like those in Jurassic Park, Ricardo Breceda couldn’t have dreamed how it would change his life. Having experienced a devastating construction accident, the Mexico-born Ricardo had persevered and was now operating a thriving boot business in California. Yet, wanting to please his daughter, he began what would become his artistic awakening.

True, he had been experimenting with scrap metal and a welder he had snatched up in a trade, but with no previous art training, he wasn’t sure how to begin. After a year of cutting, hammering, welding, and numerous scraped knuckles, what emerged from his efforts was a seventeen-foot-tall Tyrannosaurs Rex, much to the delight of Lianna.

 

 

In 2008, Breceda was originally commissioned by local philanthropist Dennis Avery to make sculptures for his extensive desert property known as Galleta Meadows, but the creatures seem to have multiplied around town. To find Breceda’s 130 or so rust-red, scrap-metal sculptures, we picked up a detailed map at the Anza-Borrego Desert Natural History Association bookstore in Borrego Springs and started driving.

 

 

It was fun to look across the desert and see these giant creatures looming in the distance. Often when we got closer, we would discover smaller creatures like these turtles or ground sloths.

 

 

 

 

Breceda also makes statues of people, most of which are based on people from the old west such as cowboys and Native American figures. One of Breceda’s most notable sculptures is a 350-foot serpent found in Borrego Springs whose head and body pops out of the sand.

 

 

 

 

 

Other notable examples of Breceda’s work includes fighting dinosaur statues and a series of wild horse sculptures  which can be seen from Highway 79 South. His daughter Lianna now assists in the sculpting of his statues so the artistic passion has come full circle.

 

 

After exploring the sculptures in the desert it was time for some exploration below ground. I have come to love slot canyons so any opportunity to explore one on a clear day with no threat of rain is a GO! Simply named The Slot, this narrow siltstone canyon provides a fun hike in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. This 0.8-mike trek is capped off with a passage beneath a gravity-defying rock span. This short hike has just 100 feet of elevation loss, but the memory will be much more profound especially if the light peeking into the canyon provides its own show.

 

 

From the parking area, look for footprints leading down into the ravine below. Left of the trailhead, just to the right of a dirt road continuing east, is a wide path that descends into the canyon.

The trail is steep, but not nearly as steep as it looks from the parking lot above, dropping less than fifty feet. There are no more optical illusions from here, just Mother Nature doing what she does best.

 

 

Turn left and hike down to The Slot. The siltstone walls grow taller and closer together. Not far from the start, the canyon narrows. Significantly…. Hmm, maybe we shouldn’t have had those burgers for lunch as it made it harder to squeeze through the coarse walls that are shoulder width apart, and less in some places.

 

 

 

The shaded slot canyon provides cool relief from the desert above. We continued on through the narrows to the highlight of the hike where there is a slanted rock slab bridging a narrow gap in the canyon. This block of rock appears to have broken off one wall and come to a resting place between the two. If that doesn’t make you feel uncomfortable …well, it should! The precarious feature looks like it could fall at any moment, but it thankfully it remains lodged overhead. I zipped quickly underneath with my breath held.

 

 

Too soon the fun is over and we exited the Slot into the barren, brown desert and continued the hike along the wide river bed. After finding an exit trail that felt like a 100% uphill climb we followed  loose path lot along the edge of the canyon that took us back to the parking. What a hoot, so glad we found The Slot and all in all we had a great day in Borrego Springs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This marks our second Christmas on the road and this year we are road tripping to Texas with friends. The pets and the coach at back in Palm Springs with Super Serena, the trusty petsitter.

2017 has been a phenomenal year for us and we hope it was for all of you as well.

Happy Holidays where ever you may be!!!

WOW…over a year has passed since we retired, sold all our “stuff” and started our mobile lifestyle. It‘s been a great year traveling in the Road House and cruising in the Beach House. We have seen and done so much, logging over 6,000 miles on land and over 100 hours on the Beach House engines.

 

 

Any regrets you may ask???
None, as far as the life style change is concerned. Having the time and flexibility to explore this beautiful country is a gift for sure. Not having to huddle up all winter long in the gray, rainy PNW – bonus points! The mobile lifestyle is very conducive to meeting people but the downside of that is it harder to maintain and build friendships as people are generally not in one place for long. It is a little weird to have to put yourself “out there” and work at making new friends. The biggest downside is truly that we miss seeing our Portland Pals and the spontaneity of seeing them when we lived nearby.

 

 

Do we miss working???
Not so much…No matter how much you love your work or the company you work for, there is a certain amount of stress that you just learn to adapt to. For me, the weight of the responsibility that came with my role as the Operations Director for a very successful non-profit animal shelter was literally gone when I retired. Sleeping better – you betcha! Yes, there are times that I do miss the mission and creativity that came with the responsibility but after a year I am not yearning to go back to work. These days I take my new role as the Director of Operations for the Road House and Beach House very seriously.

 

 

I know for a fact that Wally does miss the creative side of his work as well but not the corporate politics. He is finding ways to channel his creativity, working on a few technology patent ideas and doing projects for the coach or boat. He has done some really nice improvements such as the lift bed storage area he designed and installed on the boat and the big screen TV lift compartment for the coach. Love having a handy guy!!!

 

 

What about living together in such a small space???
I think we have adapted well because no one has been smothered in their sleep. That seems like a low bar and yes, we do get on each other nerves once in a while but hey…what 25 year plus married couple doesn’t. The biggest downside is the amazing collection of pet hair that I am constantly removing from both the Road House and the Beach House. I know it was in our house too but the hair had 2,500 sq foot to coat everything. A more creative person would be using all that soft fur for slippers, purses or who knows what!

Do you miss all the “stuff” you got rid of?
I don’t miss the stuff per se but it is a pain sometimes rearranging what stuff we have just to get to the stuff we want. I did miss my aging food processor that I sold in a garage sale so I recently got a new one. Woo-Hoo, yes I am a cooking geek!

Okay, I do miss our hot tub too 🙂

 

 

Now the million dollar question…isn’t this costing you a fortune??? 
This may surprise some of you but our mobile lifestyle isn’t more expensive. We have certainly made some changes to our budget since we are no longer working and not having a house to take care of most definitely helps the bottom line. We have been good savers, mostly in our company 401K programs but are certainly not rolling in dough by any means. I have been the keeper of our budget for years and to be truthful, when were working we did not think too hard about buying what we wanted, when we wanted. That mentality has definitely changed now that we are living on our savings. We did exceed our budget overall for the first year on the road but we have a better idea now where we can tighten the belt a bit. The mobile lifestyle can be anything you want it to be as can the costs associated with it, so budgets are different for different people. Suffice to say, we are way more careful with our cash theses days plus when you have nowhere to put new stuff, you just don’t buy new stuff.

What about the pets???
They love being with us and most of the time we love being with them (except when I am in the middle of the daily pet hair removal exercise). Bentley isn’t the easiest dog to travel with as he is so wary of strangers and is afraid of other dogs. Ever since he was attacked by an off leash dog this summer, he positively doesn’t want to be around other dogs. At least with people, he does warm up and will greet you with a nub wag after he has accepted that you are not the scary, evil person he thought you were. He does love laying in the sun, running free in the desert (when we know other dogs aren’t around), a good camp fire or playing ball so life is good for him.

 

 

Sucia had a rough first 5 months in the coach when we left Portland last December and it seemed like she was comatose most of the time. Jumpy, scared of all the new sounds and all the change was overload for her. She ended her stay in Santa Fe last spring with a inflamed bladder and a trip to teh vet. The vet got her feeling better and thanks to rescue remedy and calming collars she made the transition to the boat this summer very well. I think she actually likes being on the boat more than the coach as there are more levels which she can perch and see outside plus the rear cockpit is like an enclosed sun porch. She spent many hours this past summer laying out there watching birds, swirly light on the water and zenning out. The good news is that she seems to have adapted well now that we are back on the coach for the winter.

 

 

What about lessons learned???
Well, I know we had way to much “stuff” on board the coach when we rolled out of Portland last December. Believe it or not, too many clothes…specifically jackets, shoes and socks…yes, you can have too many pairs of socks and seriously how much do you really wear them when the weather is 70 degrees! Too many pairs of jeans and long pants. We really had to pare it down when we transitioned onto the boat for the summer as there is so much less storage on the boat. Also, way to many towels and dog toys! Yes, even Bentley had to do some purging.

 

 

This fall, we did another big reorg of our stuff and definitely rolled out of Anacortes a bit lighter. Since we first rolled, I have add a Instant Pot and a Cuisinart Food Processor to the small arsenal of kitchen tools I have. Since I love to cook and was able to make room for them both, I felt justified buying them both!!

Checklists. We are big believers now in check lists…seems we tend to forget things or where we put things or what things we even have. We do have a small 5×10 ft storage space near Anacortes Washington where we keep all the stuff that we couldn’t part with or things we use seasonally on either the boat or the coach like the pressure washer or carpet cleaner. Some very, very good friends in Anacortes who have an amazing storage area under their garage also let us store some of our nicer wines – thanks Millers!!!

The other reason…the really big reason we have checklists for the coach and boat is it is easy to forget how to actually run, start or set up after we have been off the coach or boat for a season. Yikes, is it an age thing??? I keep telling myself, no..its because we aren’t doing it actively…you know use it or lose it!

One boneheaded example of why I needed a check list for getting Ernie hooked up to the coach came the day we were heading out of Anacortes in October. We each have our departure/arrival chores when it comes to the coach and the boat. In addition to getting the inside of coach secure for travel, I also help Wally get Ernie (our Chevy Equinox) hooked up to the tow bar. Specifically, I connect the air brake inside the car and make sure everything is set correctly so that Ernie rolls along behind the coach. It’s really not that complicated but…forget one step and well, Ernie doesn’t roll so well.

ROADHOUSE ERNIE CHECK LIST

Once car is hooked to tow bar:
1. Attach brake bar
2. Plug in air link
3. Pump the brakes a few times
4. Release parking brake
5. Put car in neutral
6. Turn key 1 click
7. Put on sun visor
8. Double check again

Despite our checking each other’s work…some how step 5 didn’t happen (notice it is in bold now). What was our first clue?? Well, the coach didn’t seem to be going forward easily…is there something wrong with the transmission?? What is that skidding noise behind the coach??? After a few failed attempts to move the coach away from the curb and checking the tow bar set up, I stood on the sidewalk and watched as Wally tried to pull forward…WHOA, poor Ernie was skidding across the concrete, tires locked, resisting with all his 3,400 pound might. Dummy Girl…I was yelling DUMMY GIRL when Wally came out to see what was going on. Yes, I forgot to actually put the car in neutral…DUMMY GIRL, jeez, did I feel like an idiot. Wally being the nice guy he is reminded me he didn’t check my work either so technically is wasnt all my fault. Okay, that’s why those check lists are really important!!

Another lesson learned was….DON’T ALWAYS TRUST GOOGLE MAPS!!! Shit, Damn, Hell did we learn that one the hard way, more than once. We are just under 60 feet long with Ernie on the tow bar behind us.  It isn’t easy turning the coach around and we can’t back up at all with Ernie being towed so our maneuverability is limited. Best I can tell, Google maps does give a damn about that little but important factoid! Shortest or fastest route, sure thing.  I also have to research fuel stops to make sure we can get in and out without an embarrassing incident, uh like being stuck, having to unhitch Ernie and slink away while all the other pissed off customers have to wait. So it turns out my new job as does have some stress after all!

 

 

So what are we going to do this winter???
We arrived in gloriously warm Palm Springs almost 4 weeks ago and settled in very quickly to our beautiful site at the Outdoor Resort Palm Springs. This winter we are splitting our time between two RV resorts in California and Arizona. Last winter we tried a variety of different places, a variety of different state/regional parks and RV resorts to get a feel for what we might like.

 

 

 

The conclusion was actually surprising to us.  Thanksfully we agreed that we liked the amenities that a true 55 plus RV resort offers (yes, dammit we are old enough to qualify) and that we did not want to be moving around every two weeks all winter long. Since this is a lifestyle not a vacation, moving frequently all winter long actually got tiresome (I know, you are thinking what a whiner I am). Being in one place longer in the winter also means we can enjoy the new friends we are making.

Another other perk of being in one place a bit longer is that we can seek out volunteer opportunities. I fell in love with the Boyce Thompson Arboretum in Superior AZ when we visited there last February. I am interested in becoming a volunteer. Woohoo, maybe they will let me get my hands in the dirt!

 

 

Don’t get me wrong, we love to do road trips and there is so much of the US we want to explore but really who wants to do that in the cold of winter! November through March is a great time to be hanging in a warmer climate but that sure rules out a whole lot of the US especially December – February. Perhaps in future winters, we will explore Texas, Louisiana, Alabama and over as far as Florida…well, once hurricane season is over. Our migration back and forth to the boat will be when we do our short hops, 1-2 weeks stops to explore other states like Colorado, Wyoming, Montana and Nevada.

 

 

So your going to continue the mobile lifestyle???
Yes sir’ee Bob we sure are…no plans to settle down anywhere at this point. North American is a big continent and best I can tell, we are not getting any younger so Carpe Diem…

We arrived in gloriously warm Palm Springs about two weeks ago and settled in very quickly to our beautiful site at the Outdoor Resort Palm Springs. Our outdoor living space here is really awesome with lots of shade and privacy. Love, Love, Love sitting outside on the patio in the mornings with a steaming cup of java and listening to all the birds. The hummingbirds seem to love our flowering hedge so I got out my feeders and set them up so Sucia could bird watch too.

 

 

 

My cousin June and her hubby Matt were arriving on the Sunday before Thanksgiving and staying at our nearby timeshare condo. So excited to be spending Thanksgiving with them and took my duties as official tour guide very seriously!!! The weather forecast for Thanksgiving day indicated that yes, we would be dining Alfresco – YAY!!! As a matter of fact, it seems the entire week was going to be toasty – 90 degrees of toasty.

There is so much to see and do in Palm Springs plus the dining scene here is outstanding. Everything from super casual to fine dining and every ethic option you could ask for. I do a lot of research on restaurants because I LOVE to eat and as much as I LOVE to cook, I really enjoy a great meal that someone else fixes and no dishes!!

After getting June and Matt checked into the condo on Sunday, we all headed to the Purple Palm Restaurant in Palm Springs for a late lunch. This place is the real meal deal, so totally quintessential Palm Springs. The restaurant is located in the Colony Palms Hotel  which is known as one of Palm Springs’ iconic and luxurious downtown hotels. Just one block off of the city’s main design district and built in the 1930s, this 57-room resort retains many charming features of its original Spanish colonial architecture, from arched entryways and covered ceilings to original ceramic floor tiles.

 

We were seated outside in an intimate sanctuary with lush greenery with the pool as a backdrop behind us. What a great introduction to Palm Springs…the Purple Palm menu is casual, approachable and the Bloody Marys are buzz worthy!! In addition to a great meal, we experienced warm personalized service. This was a great place for us to have a long, lingering lunch and catch up as it had been years since we were all together.

 

 

Monday was going to be toasty so it seemed like the perfect day to head up The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. This crazy ride is the world’s largest rotating tram car, traveling over two-and-one-half miles along the breathtaking cliffs of Chino Canyon and transports riders to the pristine wilderness of the Mt. San Jacinto State Park. During our approximately ten-minute journey, the tram car rotated slowly, offering picturesque and spectacular vistas of the valley floor below. We departed the tram at elevation 8,516 feet and at least 25 degrees cooler than the valley floor.

 

 

 

After a casual lunch at The Peaks Restaurant we enjoyed the observation decks, the natural history museum and an easy hike through the long valley and back, stopping at the five scenic notches that gave different but spectacular views out over the valley below.

 

 

The tram was the dream of a young electrical engineer, Francis Crocker, that began in 1935 while he was on a trip to Banning, California, with newspaper publisher Carl Barkow. Mopping his brow in the heat of the day, Crocker gazed at the still snow-capped peak of Mount San Jacinto 10,834 feet elevation and longed to “go up there where it’s nice and cool”. At that moment, “Crocker’s Folly,” as it was soon dubbed by one newspaper woman, was born – a tramway up the sheer cliffs of Chino Canyon. The tramway project stalled several times over the years but because of sheer determination by Crocker was finished in 1963. No small feat to build, the first tower is the only one that can be reached by road. The helicopters flew some 23,000 missions during the 26 months of construction, hauling men and materials needed to erect the four other towers and the 35,000 sq. ft. Mountain Station.

 

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The winter months change the whole dynamic at the top and hiking gives way to snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and snow camping. There was no threat of snow when we were there but I can certainly imagine the transition of dry, pine forests to winter wonderland.

 

 

The next day our exploring took us on a drive across the Palms to Pines Scenic Byway. This beautiful drive from Palm Springs to Banning shows a different side of southern California. Palm trees give way to pines and firs as the byway climbs into the San Bernardino National Forest.

 

 

Idyllwild was the perfect lunch stop and we had another great meal at the Mile High Café. This family owned restaurant is a gem, offering an eclectic menu with a decidedly Korean influence. The Whiskey Bacon Jam was to die for!!! While definitely cooler than the Coachella Valley, sitting at over 5,000 ft elevation it was still a great day to enjoy the outdoor, dog friendly patio.

 

 

Besides the great lunch, a stroll through Idyllwild and all the jaw dropping views along the way, I think the big highlight of the day was the short hike around Lake Fulmor. The fall colors were just spectacular, making the area a photographers nirvana. All of our cameras got a work out and I can only imagine how many MB of digital storage were used.

 

 

 

The final experience of the day was on the drive back to Palm Springs with a detour of Hwy 10 through the windmill farms and a date shake at the funky Windmill Market. Dates are actually grown in the Coachella Valley and there are several places you can buy the local varietals. Date shakes are pretty dang good but I still prefer my dates wrapped in proscuttio…wink, wink!!

 

 

The thanksgiving shopping was all done and the menu planned so we were able to spend the day before the big feast in Old Town Palm Springs wandering the shops, people watching, sipping coffee and doing a driving tour to see some amazing homes built in the era of mid-century architecture. We saw Marilyn Monroes house, the Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway – can you say funky, the Kaufmann Desert House, Ann Miller’s House and the Liberace House. Driving the area where these houses are located is a feast to the eyes for those mid-century modern architecture lovers. Only wish we had been able to get inside some of those beauties.

 

 

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Thanksgiving day was warm so we relaxed and enjoyed our outdoor living room at the RV Resort. I was a cooking crazy-woman and with some help turned out a pretty amazing Thanksgiving feast. I was so into the cooking that I completely forgot to take any pictures – lame – but it was a delicious feast, even the store bought pie, a “real” pecan pie from Claim Jumpers. Thanksfully, Matt took a few nice pictures 🙂

 

 

The menu below was written by my very creative cousin June…

To Quaf….
Monsuier Byer’s Cardboard-Cellared, Aged Vino:
A. Rafanelli, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma Valley Zinfandel, 2014

Macchia Old Vine Zinfandel ‘Mischevious’ 2016 With Notes of Berries and Soft Vanilla

In The Beginning…
Tender Kale-Radicchio-Shaved Brussels Sprout, Sea Salt-Sprinkled Salad With Dried Cranberries & Garlic-Vinagarette

In The Middle….
Apple Wood, Tragar-Smoked, Spatchcocked Turkey with Citrus-Herb Butter

Southern Fried Corn with Crunchy Smoked Bacon Crumbles

Gruyered Gratin de Sweet Potato, Yam & Red Potatoes With Herb Cream Sauce

Slow-Simmered Turkey Giblet Gravy With Simon & Garfunkle Deconstructed Herb Garni of Sage, Rosemary & Thyme.

Rosemary-Balsamic-Maple Glazed, Roasted & Caramelized Carrots drizzled with Herb de Provence Olive Oil
In The End….
Claim Jumper’s Signature Southern Pecan Pie, With Extra Flaky Crust & Real (Not Fake) Pecans

Idyllwyld Ethiopian Organic, Tangy City-Roasted Coffee With Hints of Blueberry

Truly, the best part of the day was being together with my BCF’s from Kentucky, playing games, sipping wine and being silly. If you have never played the board game Redneck Life, be prepared to laugh until almost you pee your pants! I won because I actually accumulated enough money to have all my missing teeth fixed!!! So very thankfully they made the trip to Palm Springs to be with us.

Our week together was a busy whirlwind and our last night we went on a strange adventure to see Robo Lights. This fantastical, four acre winter-wonderland-meets-sci-fi art installation that lights up the upscale Movie Colony East neighborhood is the life-long work of is Kenny Irwin Jr. He is quoted as saying “The display features a life time’s worth of monumental and variety complex art that spanning nearly thirty five years from the time I was very little where I made my first large outdoor found art robot at the age of nine. Of course, I have been creating art in one form or another since I was practically born”.

 

 

This is one of the most amazingly, bizarre places I have ever been. Outrageous wonderland flies out of whacky artist’s mind into 3-D manifestation like that gory creature out of Kane’s chest in Alien. Only this one’s done in full trashion with exploded microwaves, hot pink foam , lawn chair fences, telephone christmas wreaths and so much more.

 

 

 

Watch out reindeer, these kinetic mannequins and bunnies are taking alien black Santa for the sleigh ride of the century! I wondered if the parents who brought children evaluated their child’s sensitivities and future propensity toward weirdness first! The level of detail in these mind-blowing recycled sculptures really must be seen to be believed.

 

 

 

The only possible downside to all of this creepy brilliance is that it’s all SO MUCH. It’s hard to get your head around everything, and it’s honestly a little overwhelming. But hey, it is a lifetime of artistry, right!!!

 

 

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It was an unanimous decision to celebrate our fabulous week together over lunch again at the Purple Palm..it has been decided that this is our place. All good things must come to an end and somehow our week together just flew by. Seems I scored very high marks as a Palm Springs Tour Guide, A Plus Plus!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Santa Fe was not on the itinerary for this fall but that is the beauty of this mobile lifestyle – you can truly go whenever and wherever you want! So when our full-time RV friends Joe and Sharon texted me and mentioned they would be in Santa Fe for a month in Oct/Nov we decided to detour for 10 days and meet up with them.

 

 

The RVing lifestyle lends itself to meeting new people and there is a certain camaraderie amongst travelers in general. I met Joe and Sharon last February in Gold Canyon AZ when I spotted them walking a beautiful white Boxer. Of course, I pulled my bike over in the RV Resort to chat with them and meet Cooper. I remember telling Wally about these nice folks I met from Texas and gushing about Cooper. I guess we were destined to be friends so it was serendipity when we ran into them again in Santa Fe New Mexico in April.

We had a very warm welcome when we arrived last week and were really grateful to have a homemade meal and wine waiting after our long drive from Moab Utah. Our stay at the Santa Fe Skies RV Resort was spent catching up, long walks with the dogs, cocktails in front of the blazing courtyard chimenea in the evenings, wandering the Plaza, long lunches in charming Santa Fe with many margaritas (made with Patron Silver by the way) and hiking at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Park.

 

 

 

Santa Fe is a very livable city and boast the cleanest air in the US. At 7,000 feet, Santa Fe sits in the Sangre de Cristo foothills renowned for its Pueblo-style architecture and as a creative arts hotbed. Founded as a Spanish colony in 1610, it has at its heart the traditional Plaza. The surrounding historic district’s crooked streets wind past adobe landmarks including the Palace of the Governors, now home to the New Mexico History Museum.

We are always looking at places we visit through the lens of “would we ever want to live here”.

Known as the “Land of Enchantment,” New Mexico offers residents breathtaking views, colorful scenery and vibrant culture. Millions of acres of land in New Mexico fall under the protection of the National Forest and National Park Services which mean there are abundant outdoor recreational opportunities. The more than 300 days of sunshine each year is pretty darn enticing too!

Santa Fe in particular has a nice vibe and loads of yummy dining places – definitely a foodie city, great roads and hiking areas. Services like shopping are plentiful and they have a Trader Joe’s – score!

 

 

The biggest downsides for me is that it is high desert which means things get a bit dusty and gritty plus the housing prices in Santa Fe are definitely higher than the national average.

 

 

None of these things would be deal breakers, so Santa Fe stays on the list of possibilities for the distant future when we get tired of our mobile lifestyle. For now, we look forward to more exploration of the US, making new friends and all the adventures that our nomadic lifestyle brings.

 

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I was so intrigued with the ghost town of Cisco that we visited on our Scenic Byway 128 drive near Moab that I thought it deserved its own post. The “town” doesn’t look like much and what remains is a bit creepy with an unwelcoming vibe but fun exploring none the less.

 

 

Seems creepy is good when it comes to some movies and Cisco has been featured in movies like Vanishing Point, Don’t Come Knocking, Thelma and Louise as well as the Johnny Cash song, “Cisco Clifton’s Filling Station”.

 

 

What I learned from searching the internet is that the town started in the 1880s as a saloon and water-refilling station for the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad. As work crews and, later, travelers came through, stores, hotels and restaurants sprang up to accommodate them. Nearby cattle ranchers and sheep herders in the Book Cliffs north of town began using Cisco as a livestock and provisioning center. Around the turn of the 20th century, over 100,000 sheep were sheared at Cisco before being shipped to market.

In 1924, oil and natural gas were discovered in the region which gave a boost to the town. At one time, Cisco was the largest producer of oil and natural gas in the state. After World War II, when Americans began a love affair with the automobile and began to travel as never before, Cisco was a welcome respite for thirsty travelers headed through the arid desert. Situated on the main highway through the region at the time (US 6/50), a number of businesses sprouted up to serve those passing through, including restaurants, gas stations, and saloons.

 

 

In the 1950’s, when the railroad began to use diesel engines, replacing the coal powered steam engines and the need for water stops, Cisco became a candidate for a ghost town. However, the small town was saved by the discovery of uranium and vanadium in the area that drew prospectors by the thousands. Cisco catered to the desert prospectors for several years, until the mining “craze” fizzled and the prospectors moved on.

 

 

Two decades later however, Cisco would not be so lucky when I-70 barreled through the region, completely bypassing Cisco and its businesses. The economy immediately declined and people moved away.

 

 

The town site contains many relics of a typical old west railroad town. Cisco survived long enough into the 20th century to be assigned a ZIP Code, 84515. Unfortunately for history and railroad buffs, the ghost town’s easy access and proximity to the freeway have lured vandals; the relics are heavily damaged and the town is littered with abandoned vehicles now.

 

 

According to Legends of America, one of the last businesses in Cisco was a gas station/restaurant, whose owner went to jail for shooting a man who drove off without paying for his gas. The gas station owner’s wife took over the business and ran it poorly, allegedly keeping the door locked and only serving customers when she felt like it. She had a large bad-tempered dog that frequently bit customers. It is said that if the customer got upset or kicked the dog, she turned them away, but if they kept a cool head, she would serve them.

 

 

 

Though the railroad tracks continue to be used by the Union Pacific Railroad and the California Zephyr still “flies” through, the train hasn’t stopped here in decades. Allegedly, there are still a few people who live in this desolate town, but during our quick visit we saw nary a soul, not even a roaming dog.

Apparently the state of Utah is home to over 100 ghost towns…another reason for me to come back and do some more exploring!

 

The Mighty 5 national parks in Utah draw several million visitors from around the world each year to marvel at surreal scenery and experience amazing outdoor activities. A trip to The Mighty 5 means watching the sunrise over the towering depths of Canyonlands National Park, then watching the sunset through an impossibly delicate rock bow in Arches National Park. It means standing nose-to-nose with ancient petroglyphs in Capitol Reef National Park, then lying on your back as a beautiful meteor shower streaks across the Milky Way. It means gazing down at coral-hued rock hoodoos in Bryce Canyon National Park, then gazing upward at the steep walls of slot canyon trails in Zion National Park.

 

I feel fortunate to have been able to visit all of the Mighty 5 this year. We have been hiking, biking, picnicking, walking, exploring, stargazing and generally just marveling at how much natural beauty there is in the state of Utah.  This past spring we visited Bryce, Zion and Capitol Reef National Parks and planned our fall migration south to take in the other two of the Mighty Five.

 

 

Our week in Arches and Canyonlands National Parks were a bit of a whirl wind.  Thanks to our unplanned stay in Twin Falls Idaho we broke our own rule about spending at least one week exploring each park. Our stay in Moab was just over a week long but was really the perfect place to base ourself to see both parks. On this trip we mainly hiked and did scenic drives so the bikes never made it off the back of the coach. Oh, well, next time!

 

 

Arches was captivating and yes, there were so many arches. Most hikes and viewpoints in the park are centered around seeing these huge natural rock formations. Located just 5 miles north of Moab is Arches National Park, which contains the world’s largest concentration of natural sandstone arches. Although over 2,000 arches are located within the park’s 76,518 acres, the park also contains an astounding variety of other geological formations. Colossal sandstone fins, massive balanced rocks, soaring pinnacles and spires dwarf visitors as they explore the park’s viewpoints and hiking trails. A newly paved scenic drive takes visitors to many of the major viewpoints within the park. As hikers, we had a variety of trails to choose from. Some are short twenty minute walks leading right up to many of the largest arches and others are half or full day adventures.

 

 

When we have a week or more to spend exploring, we generally don’t spend time inside the parks on the weekends when it is busier. Those are great days for scenic drives such as the one we did on Byway 128. Late October was the perfect time to visit as the day time temps are near perfect for hiking and both parks felt empty. Don’t get me wrong, there were always people at the viewpoints and easy trail heads but when we got off the beaten path, we often had the trail to ourselves.

 

 

Our first hike in Arches was Devils Garden Trail Loop, which is the longest of the maintained trails in the park and leads to eight awe-inspiring arches. We hiked over 7 miles, traversed narrow ledges with rocky surfaces and did plenty of scrambling on slickrock but lucky for us it was very dry so none of the surfaces were slippery.

 

 

One of my favorite hikes, Tower Arch was even more off the beaten path and begins at the end of the four-wheel-drive road at the west side of the park. This unpaved road washes out quickly in rainstorms but again we had perfect conditions to get into the backcountry. While it was only 3.5 miles, the trail climbs a steep rock wall, then cuts across a valley and then meanders through sandstone fins and sand dunes. We literally didn’t see anyone for most of the hike and had a quiet picnic lunch under the arch with our friends Tom and Laurie.

 

 

 

We decided to do some real off roading after leaving Tower Arches and were hoping to get to Anniversary Arch. The Trails Off Road website describes the technical rating as easy. Here is their Jeep trail description:
“Dirt road. Rutted, washes, or gulches. Water crossings up to 6″ depth. Passable mud. Grades up to 10 degrees. Small rocks or holes. 4WD recommended but 2WD possible under good conditions and with adequate ground clearance and skill. No width problems for any normal vehicle”,

 

Park Avenue was another fun, short, 2 mile in and out hike. The trail descends steeply into a spectacular canyon and continues down the wash to the Courthouse Towers. There is a beautiful natural amphitheater there when I could image a concert being held. Unfortunately, the sun was all wrong for a picture so you will have to just explore it yourselves!

 

 

Our day at Canyonlands National Park was spent mainly driving through the park and doing short hikes at the viewpoints. Canyonlands is the largest national park in Utah, and its diversity staggers the imagination. The park is divided into four districts, each having distinct geographic differences. The easiest way to see the park is to visit the Island in the Sky district which is only 32 miles from Moab.
The Island in the Sky district sits atop a massive 1500 foot mesa, quite literally creating a visual Island in the Sky. Twenty miles of paved roads lead to many of the most spectacular views in Canyon Country. From these lofty viewpoints visitors can often see over 100 miles in any given direction and take in panoramic views that encompass thousands of square miles of canyon country.

 

Our first short 2 mile hike was to Upheaval Dome lookout where you have a great view into the crater. Upheaval Dome is an impact structure so you are seeing the deeply eroded bottom-most remnants of an impact crater. The crater is clearly visible on the surface as bright brown and black concentric rings. Approximately 3 miles in diameter, the crater is known to be less than 170 million years old. YAY,  I am just a youngster in comparison to this crater.

 

 

 

Grand View Point and the 2 mile round trip trail along the rims edge was my favorite hike of the day. We sat right on the rim and ogled the panoramic vistas. I could have dangled my legs right over the rims edge but that was too much for this slightly height challenged gal.

 

 

 

There are plenty of great picnic sites within the park and again, it was a relatively quiet day in the park so we feasted on the views and our lunch in solitude.

Our week in Moab went way to quickly and soon it was time to hit the road for Santa Fe NM where we will meet up with fellow full time RV friends. Knowing we have only barely scratched the surface of things to explore in the area, I think that Moab will remain on our list of places to visit again.

 

 

 

 

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Many folks come to Moab for the back county adventures, bringing their ATV’s or off road Jeeps to go exploring. The good news is that you don’t have to own a 4×4 jeep or a dune buggy to explore Moab, UT. We found one of many great scenic drives that was Ernie friendly. The Scenic Byway 128 from Moab to Cisco allowed us to experience the breathtaking landscape of Moab, without getting stuck in the sand! Admittedly, I am kinda jonesing to rent one of these big boys next year!

 

 

This beautiful stretch of road from Moab to Cisco is known as “River Road” to the locals, and can be picked up just north of town. The road follows a narrow red rock canyon that’s been carved out by the Colorado River, before opening up and transitioning into an open desert landscape. This road will eventually lead you to the semi-abandoned ghost town of Cisco.

 

 

While it is only 40 miles in distance, we took most of the day to explore the many interesting and beautiful places along the way. Bentley loved all the stops along the Colorado River. It is a dogs life, playing in the water and running free (there was no one around most of the time so we let him off leash…shhh). There are also many great hikes along the way and since we were out of National Parks, Bentley got to do some hiking too.

 

 

Located just three miles from Moab is Negro Bill Canyon. The trailhead was renamed in 2017 to Grandstaff Canyon because thankfully black lives do matter to some people in the federal government. If you’re looking to go hiking, this a great spot because the narrow canyon remains well-shaded throughout the day. There is a trail that leads back into the canyon and about 2 miles in you’ll arrive at Morning Glory Natural Bridge. We didn’t hike here but would certainly come back and explore this area.

 

About four miles from Grandstaff Canyon, the byway passes the Big Bend Campground and picnic area with its white sand beach. Many of the campsites here are right on the river and the setting is just beautiful. In the late part of October, the campground was virtually empty.

 

 

 

The next section of the road closely parallels the Colorado River with the high canyon walls on either side. Since we had the road to ourselves for most of the drive, we could slow down and just enjoy the natural beauty of the area.

 

 

Our next stop was totally unexpected as we had no idea there was a winery so near Moab and almost didn’t stop when we passed the signs for Castle Creek Winery. News flash…Utah isn’t exactly the wine capital of the US, but what the heck, we had to turn around and go back.

 

 

Located just 14 miles from Moab, the winery overlooks the river’s best white water rapids, at the foot of dramatic red rock cliffs. It’s a classic, rugged western landscape and the winery sits on a historic working ranch called Red Cliffs Adventure Lodge. There is also a western heritage and film museum on the property that it is well worth a stop. We learned that the grapes are actually grown in nearby Green Valley and Castle Valley. I preferred the white wines over their reds so we left with 2 bottles of the Chenin Blanc and 2 bottles of the Chardonnay. Both these wines are easy drinkers and priced right at $12.95 a bottle so into the wine ottoman they went!

 

 

After the canyon widens, about 21 miles in, you’ll will see Fisher Towers in the distance off to your right. The massive 1,500’ tall spire know as the Titan creates an iconic southwestern vista and have been featured in a variety of western films.

 

 

The trailhead and picnic area are about 2 miles off 128 on an unimproved but Ernie friendly road. There are a variety of hiking trails that depart from the parking area, as well as a bunch of technical climbing routes. We did part of the hike with Bentley and had our lunch in solitude with the massive towers as our backdrop.

 

 

Lower Onion Creek Campground is a few miles from this beautiful hiking area. This campground offers spectacular views of Fisher Tower and the surrounding red rock canyon. We checked it out to see if it was big rig friendly and yes, many of the sites would accommodate the Road House. Again, it was virtually deserted so note to self…come in October when the crowds are all gone.

 

 

About 30 miles into the drive are the remains of historic Dewey Bridge. Constructed in 1916, the suspension bridge was in operation until 2008, when it was destroyed by a brush fire. Now all that is left is the steel frame and cable wiring making an eerie picture out over the desert vista. The story is a 7-year-old boy camping with his parents had gone down to the river and started a brush fire with matches. Bummer, I mean what kid doesn’t play with matches but what a legacy to live with, burning down a historical suspension bridge. I have fond memories of lighting gasoline on fire …and no, there was not any parental oversight going on then either.

 

 

Our final stop was at the ghost town of Cisco, which was once used as a water refueling station for the railroad. The ghost town of Cisco, Utah is one of the most iconic ghost towns in all of America. It has been featured in movies like Thelma & Louise, Vanishing Point, and Don’t Come Knocking as well as the Johnny Cash song, “Cisco Clifton’s Filling Station,” so I couldn’t pass up the chance to visit this spooky, could be snake-infested, could-get-shot-at-any-moment by some nut job little ghost town. This place deserves a post all to itself so stayed tuned for more on Cisco.

 

Scenic Byway 128 sure lived up to its name and was a great way to spend part of the day. We were all tuckered out…especially Bentley who gave the day a four paws up rating.

 

 

Some RV’ers love boon docking…others not so much. Boondocking is essentially camping without hookups. You may also hear it referred to as ‘dry camping’. Often dry camping means staying in a campground without hookups, whereas, boondocking typically means staying in a completely undeveloped area and the bonus is you are a bit isolated and its quiet.

Despite the expansive BLM lands around Moab, it isn’t actually easy to find a “real” off the grid experience anymore. Due to overuse, the BLM closed most of the traditional boondocking spots and implemented a policy of designated campsites only (in fact on the main roads it’s prohibited to camp anywhere else & they can/will fine you for doing so). There are very few select free “dispersed camping” sites listed on the BLM website of which most are more suited to tent campers or truck campers. Finding a site for a larger coach is more difficult, but worth a look for those with smaller rigs. We checked out many of the designated BLM campgrounds while in Moab and many of them were very busy with loads of ATV’s roaring around kicking up dust all hours of the day and night.

In our first year as year as nomads, we did not do any real boondocking. Okay, dry camping overnight in the Freightliner parking lot doesn’t really count in my book!

 

 

 

The Road House has everything we need to go off the grid. The refrigerator, hot water heater and furnace run off either propane or AC. The stove and oven are propane only plus we have four house batteries which along with the AC inverter run our lights (mostly LED) and the fans for the furnace. The 8 kilowatt generator will charge the batteries and run the air conditions if we need them. Additionally, we can hold 90 gallons of fresh water, 60 gallons of gray and 60 gallons of black water.

 

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