Great Loop Adventure – Hampton Virginia

It’s been a while since I posted anything and honestly August is shaping up to be the worst month we had since starting the Great Loop Adventure… possible the most epically bad month I can remember.

As you know, we have been hanging out at Bluewater Yachting Center in Hampton Virginia waiting to get parts to repair our port transmission. Annoying yes but definitely not the worst par of the month.

The last ten days have been consumed with end of life issues with our sweet boy Bentley. We knew he was slowing down, we knew 12 years old was getting on for a Boxer and we knew the inevitable would happen someday. But it just happened so quickly and we are reeling from it.

He was fine one day and really sick a couple of days later. A trip to the veterinarian revealed some serious heart issues. We left the vet with a bag of meds, a referral to a cardiologist and we were somewhat hopeful. Less than a week later we were were back at the vets office saying good bye to him.

After we said our goodbyes, I couldn’t breathe and went outside and just wailed. 12 plus years with him, our hearts ache and it’s hard to see the joy he brought us through the grief right now. I know this too shall pass and his bright light and the joy of him being a part of our lives will return, just like it did with Gus, Bob, Lacy and Chauncey before him.

Bentley will always be the tether ball champion!!!

He was such a big part of our lives and so many of our adventures, especially since we have been retired. Such a silly, goofy sensitive soul who loved to play ball, chase butterflies and lay in the sun. When I was still working he went to work with me almost everyday, he loved going to the beach with us, he cruised the San Juan Islands and all the way to Desolation Sound British Columbia with us. He traveled thousands of miles with us in the coach through out the US and Canada. I know he had a wonderful life but damn it we just were not ready for his passing.

It’s painful to go through his things, remove his beds from the boat, clean out his food and treat cupboard… it’s like I am erasing his presence. We have never not had a dog and we’ll see how long we last before another four legged fur baby enters our life. But for now, our Kitty Sucia is trying to fill the void. Extra headbutts and lap time, but she too is missing him. He was her pack.

And if all that that isn’t bad enough… we both have COVID! Two days after Bentley passed we both felt tired and rundown and the symptoms have just gotten worse from there. So while I wallow in my self pity, I also know this too shall pass and we actually have a lot to be grateful for. That said, we are both ready for this month to be over and looking forward to a better September.

I’ve been looking at photos and videos of our sweet boy and will share a few with you. Rest in peace baby Bentie, we are blessed to have had you as part of our family.

Bentie was an adorable puppy, his buddy Gus helped us raise him and taught him some manners too. They were the best buddies and I hope they are together again.

That boy loved the beach… and with those long legs he could fly like the wind! He wasn’t much of a swimmer but wading was big fun!

Bentie on Patos Island…

Bentie on Matia Island…

Bentie at Kwatsi Bay in the Broughton Islands British Columbia…

Bentie on the boat…

Bentie in Santa Fe New Mexico…

Bentie in the desert… The Lemon Dog was his nickname. He discovered lemons at our RV Resort in Palm Springs and loved playing with them and chewing on them. Lemony fresh breathe!!!

All good things got to come to an end

Rolling ’till it ends in the sea
Our pleasure grows
Rolling ’till it ends in you and me
Rolling ’till it ends in you and me
Here where the angels
Have appeared and are gone
Your face like an ember
Glows in the dawn
But I want you to remember
All wild deeds live on
All good times, all good friends

Great Loop Adventure – Hampton Virginia

It’s not usually good news when the captain is doing routine maintenance on the boat and greets you with the following words “I think we have a problem”. Well, it’s a boat so yeah what’s new I thought. Then he showed me this…

Nope, those are not gemstones or black diamonds, those are metal pieces that he found in the oil of our port (left) transmission. First he found 3-4 pieces in the oil, then put a magnetic wand in the oil drain and found a lot more… NOT GOOD!!! After some discussion with a ZF/Hurth Transmission expert, the consensus is those little metal bits are likely from our transmission clutch gears. Nope, not good at all.

The irony (pun intended), is that we have traveled almost a thousand miles with ZERO issues. No tale tail clunking, grinding or rough shifting. So our first though is can we keep cruising, take it easy on the engines and transmissions and have it fixed this winter while the boat is in storage.

Nope, not a good idea at all and the worst case scenario is that something could happen at the worst possible time and do even more damage to the transmission. UGH, we are not gamblers so continuing on our merry way didn’t seem like a good option. Our transmission experts were a bit puzzled about these bits of gear in just one of our two transmissions. They said this isn’t due to lack of maintenance – this usually happens because of an incident. Did we have an incident??? Nope, but there was one when the boat was being pulled out for the pre-purchase survey. Thats another long story, which I won’t bore you with. But honestly none of us including the engine and hull surveyor even thought about transmission damage. After describing that incident to the transmission expert, he agreed that it was indeed possible that this damage had happened then.

So now what??? We decided to bring the boat over to Bluewater Yacht Center in Hampton to have the transmission pulled and sent to Great Lakes Power to be repaired. Unfortunately , this type of repair can’t be done any other way. 

The good news is we can stay on the boat while the repairs are being made but the bad news is our 1998 ZF Hurth Transmission isn’t easy to find OEM parts for. The Great Lakes Power folks found everything except the gasket and seal kit. It might be available by late September. UGH… after some looking we found an aftermarket kit made by a reliable company so we are going to go that route.

Yes, we are both a bit bummed as an extended layover in Hampton was not on the agenda for sure. So … no cruising for us until the repair is done but at least we have our trusty SUV Ernie to go exploring in. The marina is nice, we have a pool and laundry facilities and a really great cider place nearby!!

Plus it really pretty here and Mother Nature put on a show last night just to cheer us up!

Great Loop Adventure Hampton VA – Day 116

We decided to explore locally and started off with lunch at Venture Kitchen and Bar in Downtown Hampton. Their website described handmade pizza dough and a wood fired oven, so that seemed like a perfect lunch on a rainy day. The young man who waited on us was great and very chatty. Not sure how we got on the subject but he was fascinated by The Great Loop and kept coming by to ask us questions. He has a friend who lives on a boat… that is not operable, but still, he totally got the magnitude of doing a 6,000 mile loop around the US on a boat. Maybe it was more the idea that a boat could could actually run for that many miles??? I loved his curiosity and interest in traveling and so hope he follows his dreams, gets out and sees the world.

After lunch, we headed over to the NASA Langley Visitors Center which houses the Virginia Air & Space Science Center. Wally worked for NASA in the early 90’s and is always game to visit anything NASA, Space or Aeronautics related. It was a very heady time in his career and the spacecrafts he designed electronic hardware for all launched into space and gathered some really amazing science.


Mars Pathfinder was one of the most exciting projects that Wally worked on during his time at NASA- JPL. I will never forget the excitement of seeing it launch in Florida and then seeing it actually land on Mars and start collecting data.

Hampton, Virginia is the birthplace of America’s space program. The Virginia Air & Space Science Center features interactive aviation exhibits spanning 100 years of flight, more than 30 historic aircraft, a hands-on space exploration gallery, unique space flight artifacts, and more! The Center is home to the Apollo 12 Command Module and the Orion PA-1 Test Vehicle – COOL!!!!

A unique collaboration between the City of Hampton and NASA Langley Research Center started in 1986. NASA Langley Research Center expressed a willingness to relocate their visitor center to downtown Hampton, so more people would have access to explore the past, present, and future of air and space. The City wanted a new place to highlight Hampton’s wealth of history. Hampton is America’s first permanent English speaking settlement and the birthplace of our country’s air and space technology so it appeared to be the perfect collaboration.

The museum isn’t big so it’s amazing how it can house so many aircraft’s. YF16, F4 Phantom, Burt Rutan’s Experimental and the FA18 which a friend based out of Whidbey Island Washington flew over our marina on occasion!

It was a perfect rainy day outing and it wasn’t really crowded either. There were more kids there than adults as the museum has an excellent educational program. They provide educational experiences through Science, Technology, Engineering, and Mathematics (STEM) to students who will one day become our next 21st Century explorers of the future. We had fun watching a group of kids being led by a teacher doing an egg drop experiment. The goal is to drop your egg from a high point and have it land intact – think humans in the first Apollo mission!!! The girl with the balloon design and the boy with the coffee filter design nailed it!! We helped a few that landed early on the second level of the museum where we were watching. Sadly, some of those egg astronauts didn’t survive their space flight.

It was a real walk down memory lane seeing all the Apollo exhibits. It was an exciting time in American history to see Neil Armstrong walking on the moon. My mother worked in High Tech and her group manufactured some of the high reliability power supply’s in these Apollo spacecraft that we saw in the museum. She was incredibly proud of that work and we all excitedly watched so many of the Apollo launches. Who’da thunk I’d eventually marry a man who helped send space craft to Mars and Saturn???

After the museum, the weather gave us a break so we took a walk around Downtown Hampton. There is a nice river walk that winds along the Salters Creek. Don’t know if was the rain, but we wehardly saw a soul out and about and the area had ZERO vibe. Not good, not bad or indifferent, WTH??? We will have to check it out again on a weekend and see if that changes.

For boaters, Hampton is a nice stop if you are interested in the Museum and a checking out a few restaurant within walking distance. The Docks at Downtown Hampton is an option for boaters and it is right off the Hampton River in Downtown. Personally, I wasn’t impressed with it BUT the location is perfect. Safe Haven Bluewater which is a great marina is another option but it would mean taking their water taxi or Uber to get to downtown.

LOL, there was definitely no Joy at the Joy’s Marina. Looks like its hasn’t been operational in years!

After our walk around Hampton, we decided to drive over to the Phoebus Neighborhood and check out Sly Clyde Ciderworks. I really like this eclectic little neighborhood, it has all kinds of cool eateries, a few art galleries and a nice middle class vibe.

Wally is a big cider fan… me?? Meh, most are too sweet but when a good one comes along, I am all in. Wally had ordered a Sly Clyde Submursive Hard Cider at lunch and I liked it so much, that I decided to get one too. WooHoo, day drinking on a rainy day. We knew the brewery was local, so now we were really motivated to check it out. Again, there was not a soul on the streets and NO one inside at Sly Clyde when we got there around 3:30.

We had a great time with Amy, who was behind the bar. It’s really interesting and fun to connect with people who are locals. She is putting in a few extra hours at the ciderhouse on Friday and Saturday to top off her kids colleague funds. Otherwise, she is a bean counter at a nearby shipyard so we got to talk with her about that, which was fascinating! We also met her daughter who is in Vet School in Grenada but home for a summer break. The ciders were all great and we had more fun conversation with Amy and some friends of hers that stopped by with their adorable Cocker, Poodle Doodle Dogs. .

We started with a tasting flight but Amy kept the samples coming off the taps. Even a few of her own concoctions, which were delicious. The ciders were great and of course we left with several four packs and a few new friends. A very good rainy day indeed!

Great Loop Adventure Yorktown Virginia – Day 115

We took a short drive on Tuesday to Yorktown to take a walk along the York River and to also check out the American Revolution Museum.

Yorktown was established by Virginia’s colonial government in 1691 to regulate trade and to collect taxes on both imports and exports for Great Britain. By the early 1700s, Yorktown had emerged as a major Virginia port and economic center. Seems you could sail from Great Britain all the way to North American but you couldn’t hide from the tax collector – NOPE!

The walk along the York River was peaceful and beautiful which gave way to thinking about everything that has happened in this area since 1691. The siege of Yorktown was the last major land battle of the American Revolutionary War in North America, and led to the surrender of Cornwallis and the capture of both him and his army. The Continental Army’s victory at Yorktown prompted the British government to negotiate an end to the conflict, making way for an independent United States of America. Pretty heady stuff indeed.

The museum is really quite amazing and I loved the interactive exhibits, the films and the immersive experience. Admittedly, I tend to get bored at museums that are all signage and displays. Clearly, they had my learning style in mind when they designed this museum. It’s amazing I managed to get through reading the 900 plus page Michener book Chesapeake, LOL. Seriously, that was a really good read and a great introduction to this part of Virginia.

The museum allows you to discover Virginia through the lens of the Stuart monarchy, whose royal foothold impacted and influenced early America and shaped the struggles and determination of those who lived in the colony in the 17th and 18th centuries.

I thought this an interesting view of history.

There is also an outdoor replica of an encampment at the museum complete with docents in period clothing at different areas explaining how the soldiers lived during the war. While the area around the encampment is absolutely beautiful, the conditions then were grim, especially during the winter months.

For those of you who are boaters or future boaters considering the Great Loop, Yorktown is a great stop and very well set up for boaters. The City run Riverwalk Landing Piers provides 1,200 linear feet of T-pier dockage on the York River. The piers allow overnight stays and provide electrical, water, and sewer pump-out. The concrete floating pier system looks to be very new and in wonderful condition. The depths at dockside range from 27′ to 50′ on well over 1,000 feet of dock frontage space. The Waterway guide also mentions that there are discounts for stays Mon-Thursday. When we were there on a Tuesday, there were only a few boats on the docks.

The museum is an easy .75 mile walk from the Waterfront Landing along the York River. If walking isn’t your gig, there is also a trolley. This FREE air-conditioned (and heated) service will take you from the Yorktown Battlefield Visitor Center all the way to the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown, making several convenient stops along the way including Yorktown Beach and Riverwalk Landing. Apparently the drivers take the schedule very seriously as one of them almost ran us over in the cross walks by the museum. Or maybe they just don’t like us walkers!!!

There are also several restaurants just steps from the pier along with some really nice swimming areas.

FYI, there are some rules at the swimming beach. No potty mouth allowed but I think you can still laugh and have fun!